O Little Town.... How Still We See You Lie...

Incense Burner in Church of the Nativity

On our way up to Jerusalem we stopped by Bethlehem for lunch and a quick tour of our Savior's birth place.  Not only known for being the city where Jesus was born, Bethlehem was first mentioned in the Bible as the place where Jacob's wife Rachel died while giving birth to Benjamin.  It is Rachel's place of burial, and also David's place of birth. As a shepherd boy, he tended his sheep in these same hills, and later it was here that David was anointed King of Israel by Samuel. This city also contains the fields where Ruth gleaned barley from Boaz; later marrying him somewhere in this vicinity.

In order for us to visit Bethlehem, we were told we had to disembark our bus and leave our bus driver and our beloved tour guide behind.  Bethlehem is under Palestinian control (since 1995) and Israeli citizens are not allowed entrance into the city.  There is so much conflict between the Palestinians and the Israelis that Israel's government has warned its citizens not to trespass on their territory.  Trespassing would be dangerous for an Israeli because the Palestinians have been known to kidnap and hold Israeli citizens hostage in order to try and convince the Israeli government to release Palestinians held in Israeli prisons because of terrorist activities or crimes.  Of course, Israel has a "no negotiations" policy - so if Israeli citizens enter Palestinian territories, they do so at their own risk and against the better judgement of their government.  In fact, staying away from Palestinian territory is not just a suggestion, but an actual law.

A Wall of Separation Filled with Political Graffiti in Bethlehem

So visiting Bethlehem meant that we had to make a major "switch".  Our Israeli bus driver drove us to an alley of sorts where they pulled up near another bus which was right around the corner.  We were instructed to get off our bus, to take all our belongings and to keep them close to us at all times.  We were told to walk around the corner where another bus would be waiting, a Palestinian bus, a Palestinian bus driver, and a Palestinian Tour Guide.  Our tour guide was nice - but the difference in buses was quite noticeable.  We transferred from a new, clean, well kept Israeli bus to an old, very dirty, dank, much less comfortable Palestinian bus.  To be honest, the whole transfer thing seemed like some shady drug deal done on the wrong side of town.  Everything from the back alley transfer, to the hushed tones of our guide, the warnings to hold securely to all our possessions, to stay together as a group and to avoid interactions or even eye contact with strangers on the street, to the memories of bus bombings and kidnappings.... It was a little nerve wracking to say the least.

The Palestinians we met made it a point to inform us that our tour guide, the restaurant owners, and the gift shop owners were all "Christians".  I think they use that term a little bit like we do in the U.S.  Our new friends were Christians, but Christians as opposed to being Jewish or Muslim, not necessarily Christians as in having a personal relationship with Christ.  You know that feeling- that people are name dropping to manipulate you into trusting them, buying something, or to try and convince you of something about which your are doubtful? We had that feeling. I really didn't sense that we had much, if anything in common.  Their Christianity was heavily steeped in mysticism and tradition.  Try as they might to convince us that we shared a common religious experience, I felt very, very different from them.



I had really been looking forward to our stop in Bethlehem, perhaps even more than our next stop in Jerusalem.  I had visions of the Shepherds' Fields and couldn't wait to see where those humble men had first heard from the angels of the Savior's birth.  My in-laws had been to Shepherds' Field before and had shown us pictures and told us of their experiences there.  I knew what I was in for and I could hardly wait.

Bethlehem in a Sandstorm

Well, the first disappointing thing that day had to do with the weather.  At the same time we were driving north from the Dead Sea, a wind from the West had brought an enormous sandstorm over from Egypt.  Even though the noon sun was shining, you could hardly make out anything in the distance. It was eerie and other worldly.

A View of Shepherd's Field in a Sandstorm

The second disappointment was realizing our view of Shepherd's Field was obscured by the newly built condominiums.  The new construction now encroaches within a mile of Shepherd's Field.  It is no longer the picturesque, natural looking fields of my dreams and depicted in Bible storybooks, but looks more like a modern city scape. I'm sure the shepherds and their sheep agree with me and think that building these condominiums so near their fields is a "baaaahd" idea.

Franciscan Shepherds' Field Chapel

Our first stop was the Shepherds' Field Chapel, built by the Franciscans in 1954.  This chapel was built to resemble the tent of a shepherd and has beautiful murals painted on the walls inside.

Shepherds in the Fields

Angels Announcing the Birth of Jesus to the Shepherds

The Ceiling of the Shepherds' Field Chapel - Allowing Natural Light to Flood the Room

The Shepherds Visit the Christ Child

The Painting Behind the Chapel's Altar of the Angels Enjoying the Birth of Christ

This Chapel belongs to the Catholic Church (Franciscans) and is part of their Shepherds Fields. (The Greek Orthodox lay claim to their own Shepherds' Fields in another location.)

Looking Up to Ground Level From Excavations of Early Byzantine Church and Monastery

Nearby, we were able to explore the ruins of a Byzantine church and monastery which is in the process of being excavated.



We then walked around the corner to a low, natural cave which is now partially enclosed to form a chapel.  These caves were used by shepherds for shelter and protection in the night. The soot blackened ceilings remind visitors that shepherds once kept warm by fires in this very cave.  The Franciscans have constructed a little nativity scene in the cave to picture the possibility and an altar used for worship services.  

Natural Cave in Shepherds' Field Converted to a Chapel

Altar in Natural Cave - Shepherds' Field

Manger Scene Depicted in Natural Cave

Later we traveled to the oldest standing church in Israel, the Church of the Nativity.  This church was originally built in the 4th Century by Helena, the mother of Constantine.  It was reconstructed in the 6th Century by Emperor Justinian and then further repaired by the Crusaders.  The church's exterior is unimpressive except for its fortress like quality.

Outside the Entrance to the Church of the Nativity

Different Icons, Symbols, and Decorations Inside the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem

Some interesting facts:  When the Persians invaded in 614 they left the church intact, rumor has it, because they saw the mural of the Three Wise Men and were moved to protect the church when they noticed the Magi's Persian attire.  King Edward IV of England donated wood from English Oak trees for the beams you see in the ceiling.  He also donated lead for the roof, but that was stolen by the Turks to melt down and make ammunition in their war with the Venetians.

The Original Grand, Arched Doorway was Bricked Up
Leaving a Small, Low "Humble" Doorway Through Which To Enter the Church

The entrance to the church is a low doorway which has its own legends.  We were told it originally was constructed in a normal size and under an arch. (See Above)  It was supposedly reduced in size by the Crusaders who wanted to discourage barbarians from riding on horseback into the church to pillage.  Some say the door was constructed in this diminutive size to cause all who enter to strike a humble pose.  

Inside the Church of the Nativity - Corinthian Columns and English Oak Ceiling from King Edward IV

The church is divided into five naves by four rows of Corinthian columns with pictures of the apostles on them.  The floor of the church has a window that allows you to see the Byzantine mosaics that covered the original floor.  

Corinthian Column and Wooden Ceiling from King Edward IV

Original Byzantine Mosaic Floor of the Church of the Nativity

The altar of the church is under a huge gold and silver chandelier and on either side of the altar are stairs leading down to the grotto (natural cave) where a 14 point silver star embedded in white marble marks the spot where they believe Jesus was born. Early Christian tradition places the birth of Jesus in a cave, and the Church of the Nativity was constructed over this particular cave because early church goers marked this memorial as the place of Jesus birth.

Descending Stairs to Enter the Grotto (Cave) of the Church of the Nativity

14 Point Silver Star Embedded in White Marble Marks the Spot of Jesus' Birth in the Grotto

Just a few feet away from the birth place, is the Chapel of the Manger where they believe that Mary laid Jesus.

Chapel of the Manger in the Grotto of the Nativity

Smoke Blackened Ceiling Supports many Lanterns in the Grotto of the Nativity

 Like the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, the Church of the Nativity is also divided up and controlled by several denominations.  You can see their individual style and architecture as you move from area to area within the church.

Architecture and Style of Orthodox Church

After our visit to the Church of the Holy Nativity, we were escorted to a Gift Shop to browse, use the facilities, and to wait for our "bus switch".  I must admit, many of us were feeling antsy. We were wanting to get on to Jerusalem. Our visit to Bethlehem felt strained: the sandstorm, the perceived danger of being in Palestinian Territory, the overly gaudy Church of the Nativity, and the long pause in the gift shop. The prices at this gift shop seemed unreasonably steep and the pressure to purchase something was mounting.  The employees closely followed you around the store and when you paused for even a moment, they were right there to ask if you would like to purchase the item you were looking at.  

I couldn't wait to leave, but Mark was having the time of his life.  Little did I know, but the owner of the store offered to give him whatever he wanted as a gift.  He had his heart set on a little oil lamp from the time of Christ.  The owner graciously gave him that oil lamp, the treasure of our trip, in appreciation for our group stopping in his store.  Yikes - I hope our group spent enough money to warrant such a gracious gift.  I left feeling even more guilty and slightly awkward.   

The second "secretive switch" back onto our beloved Israeli bus was a cinch!  We all felt "at home" and relieved to be moving on.  Next stop... Jerusalem!

Addendum:  After writing from my "experience" in touring the city of Bethlehem, I did some research that warrants being mentioned.  In defense of our Christian friends who took us around, served us a meal, and cared for us during our short stay, it is very important to note how difficult their life has become.

Over the years, they have witnessed how relations between the Muslims and the Christians have deteriorated. Their beloved city of Bethlehem, has been under rule of the Palestinian Authority since 1995, and they have painfully watched its decline.  Up until 1972, Christians comprised the majority of Bethlehem's population. There were, at that time, only 5 mosques.  Today there are over 90 Mosques in Bethlehem and Christians make up less than 16% of the population.  Christians have become the minority group in a Muslim city.

As you can imagine, Christians have experienced tremendous persecution; spiritually, economically, and socially. In the 1990's the Mosques began  broadcasting anti-Christian sermons over their loudspeakers and teaching that the Christians did not believe in God, were criminals who collaborated with Jews, and that their young girls dressed and behaved immorally.  These public accusations sent shockwaves through the Christian community.  Islamic fundamentalists were moving into Bethlehem and ramping up the persecution.

In the years between 2001 and 2004 more than 3000 Christians emigrated from Bethlehem.  As the persecution increased the Christian population decreased, and with their decline in population, their political clout also fell. Palestinian law dictates that Bethlehem's mayor must be a Christian, but in 2008 only three Christians sat on the council that ran the city.  The council had a strong coalition led by Islamic fundamentalists - five of whom belonged to Hamas, one to Islamic Jihad, and six were Fatah representatives.

Today, Christians daily face intimidation and humiliation at the hands of their Muslim neighbors.  According to what I read, since the Palestinian Authority took over control of the city they have demanded blackmail money from Christian businessmen and have even taken land from Christian families without compensating them. Young Christian girls have reportedly been kidnapped off the streets, taken advantage of, and forced to marry Muslims in order to convert them.  There is no longer a sense of justice on the streets because the thugs who lie in wait to rip crosses off the necks of Christians and then beat them senseless are often related in some way to the police force there.

The industry of tourism has taken a sharp downturn because of the dangers present and so those who have made their living by sharing their city with tourists have suffered huge financial losses and find it difficult now to make ends meet.  Many, many Christians who have lived in Bethlehem for generations spanning thousands of years, have fled their home town because of the tremendous and difficult persecutions they have experienced.

Perhaps that is why the prices at the gift shop were a little high, and why the bus was a bit worn and neglected.  Remember the condominiums built so near the Shepherds' Fields, or the many Mosques that are erected directly across from any historically Christian site? Understanding the political climate a bit better and the realizing the persecution these Christians endure, my less than stellar experience in Bethlehem now makes more sense.  I feel much compassion for these Christian friends who continue to hold on in the face of persecution against the greatest of odds.  They have my utmost respect and my earnest prayers.