The Wailing Wall- The Last Remaining Remnant of Their Temple

Driving Around Jerusalem,  Al-Aqsa Mosque Towers Above the Southern Wall of the Temple Mount,
Sandstorm is Clearing, but Still Visible in the Air

Our first stop of the day was to the Wailing Wall, one of Israel's most holy sites.  Approaching our destination, we were able to see Old Jerusalem and the Temple Mount walls up close for the first time.  Seeing the Dome of the Rock and the Al-Aqsa Mosque towering over where the original Temple of God was built, sent shivers of injustice up my spine.  Spiritual Darkness hung heavy in the air - like the sandstorm of yesterday.

Located in the Old City of Jerusalem, the "Wailing Wall" as it has come to be known by Gentiles, got its name from the Jewish men and women who come there to lament over the destruction of their glorious Temple and to hope for its reconstruction someday.

Men Gathering at the Western Wall to Pray and Read the Torah

When Rome destroyed the Temple and raised the city of Jerusalem in 70 A.D., the Western Wall was the only structure left standing.  It must have seemed insignificant to the Romans or they certainly would have destroyed it too. After all, in the eyes of the Romans, it was not even part of the Temple structure itself, but was part of the wall surrounding the Temple Mount.  However, it has become the most significant and sacred place to the Jewish people.

Hasidic Jews Walking in the Western Wall Complex

This wall, more favorably called the Western Wall or the Kotel by our Jewish friends, is a remnant of the wall surrounding the Temple on the Western side.   Over half the wall, including 17 courses of stone under street level, are stones that were set in place by King Herod the Great, during the second Temple period, around 19 BC.  It attracts Jews from around the world to pray because this portion of the wall was the closest to the Holy of Holies where the Lord dwelt in His Temple.  They feel it is the closest physically that they can get to His Divine Presence.

Women Praying, Trying to Be as Close as Physically Possible to the Wall,
Often Pressing Their Faces Against  Its Stones

The Western wall actually functions as a retaining wall, built by Herod the Great to support his renovations in 19 BC. that expanded the natural plateau on which the First and Second Temples stood to the extensive Temple Mount that we see today.  Most of the enormous limestone blocks in the wall weigh between 2 and 8 tons each, but there are several much, much larger, with one extraordinary stone weighing more than 570 tons!  Just to give you a comparison, the largest stone in the Great Pyramid is 11 tons.

Jewish Women Praying at the Wailing Wall

During the more than 1000 years that Jerusalem was under Muslim rule, they used the wall as a dumping ground for trash to desecrate the area and humiliate the Jews who came to visit.  When Israel reclaimed Jerusalem in 1967, they constructed a large plaza facing the Western Wall to provide a proper place for prayer. This Wall and the Temple site above it continue to be a bed of contention between the Jews and the Muslims.

Our Family Gathered in the Western Wall Plaza

When approaching the wall to pray, men must always cover their heads in reverence and humility.  Many wear their yarmulke and if you visit the Western Wall as a tourist, they provide you with paper yarmulkes for this purpose.  Many men come with their blue and white prayer shawls, also used to cover their heads and shoulders as they come near this holy place.

Phylacteries and Traditional Prayer Shawl

Also, out of reverence, they never turn their backs to the Wall.  This would be a sign of disrespect.  Instead, when they are finished praying,  they slowly back up occasionally glancing behind them to avoid bumping into their neighbor.

In the Western Wall Plaza, there are stations with water fountains of sorts for the purpose of ceremonially washing up before prayer.

Preparations - A Vessel for Cleansing

Ceremonial Washing Before Prayer

Many devout Jews wear phylacteries, which are small leather boxes containing portions of the Law written on Vellum.  They bind these around their heads and on their hands to remind them to keep the Law.  The word phylactery comes from a word meaning "to guard", perhaps intending to guard against sin. It is from the Scriptures in Deuteronomy 6 that they derive this practice of wearing phylacteries. (Bind them - God's Law- as a sign on your hand, and they shall be as frontlets between your eyes.)

"Hear, O Israel: The LORD our God, the LORD is one. You shall love the LORD your God with all your heart and with all your soul and with all your might. And these words that I command you today shall be on your heart.  You shall teach them diligently to your children, and shall talk of them when you sit in your house, and when you walk by the way, and when you lie down, and when you rise.  You shall bind them as a sign on your hand, and they shall be as frontlets between your eyes.  You shall write them on the doorposts of your house and on your gates."

Some Dress More Contemporary, Others More Traditional, and Still Others More Orthodox

The men and women pray separately, divided by a partition known as the Mechitza.  The men have a larger area along the Wall, closer to the Holiest of Holies.  The men gather to pray and to read from the Torah.  The women may pray and read from prayer books, but they are forbidden by law to read from the Torah. While the length of the wall we see in the Prayer Plaza is 187 feet, those praying tend to congregate as far left as possible, knowing that the most sacred of spots is located in that direction.

Men and Women Worship/Pray Separately - Dividing Partition Known as a Mechitza

While the men are required to cover their heads when approaching the Wall to pray, the women have requirements for modesty as well.  It is a sign of reverence and respect to be clothed modestly.  No sleeveless tops, shorts, or short skirts are allowed.  Our group was forewarned and so encountered no problems, but at the entrance to the Plaza, they often provide long wrap around skirts for unknowing tourists who are ill prepared and improperly clothed.  It is not a requirement, but most of the Jewish women wear head coverings too.

Women Standing at the Wall to Pray

Believing that God dwelt in the Holy of Holies, part of the Jewish Temple, the Jewish people feel their prayers are heard best when prayed near the wall closest to where God dwells.  One rabbi in Jerusalem once said that the Hebrew expression, "The Wall has ears," was said of the Western Wall. It has been a practice of Jewish people (and really all people) from around the world to write their prayers or wishes on a small scrap of paper and to insert it in one of the tiny cracks in the wall.  If you look closely, you will see thousands of prayers tucked into these crevices.  And now, there is a way for you to send your prayers to the Western Wall (for a fee, I am sure) via the Internet where they are printed and inserted on your behalf.

Prayers and Wishes Written on Paper are Rolled Up or Folded and Inserted in the Wailing Wall

Women Rest on Plastic Lawn Chairs Scooted Close to the Wall to Read Prayer Books

Jerusalem, O Jerusalem

Jerusalem

Leaving Bethlehem, we traveled further to our final destination, Jerusalem.  Jerusalem is the climax of any trip to Israel, and we were finally on our way.  Our bus driver and guide had conspired to surprise us by taking a special route into the city that would allow us to see Jerusalem from an advantageous overlook.

We were not paying much attention, having been driving for a while, when all of a sudden over the intercom on the bus we could hear music playing and the song, the Holy City, wafted through the air.

Last night I lay a-sleeping
There came a dream so fair,
I stood in old Jerusalem
Beside the temple there.
I heard the children singing,
And ever as they sang,
Me thought the voice of angels
From heaven in answer rang.
Me thought the voice of angels
From heaven in answer rang.

Jerusalem! Jerusalem!
Lift up your gates and sing,
Hosanna in the highest!
Hosanna to your King!

And then me thought my dream was changed,
The streets no longer rang,
Hushed were the glad Hosannas
The little children sang.
The sun grew dark with mystery,
The morn was cold and chill,
As the shadow of a cross arose
Upon a lonely hill.
As the shadow of a cross arose
Upon a lonely hill.

Jerusalem! Jerusalem!
Hark! How the angels sing,
Hosanna in the highest!
Hosanna to your King!

And once again the scene was changed;
New earth there seemed to be;
I saw the Holy City
Beside the tideless sea;
The light of God was on its streets,
The gates were open wide,
And all who would might enter,
And no one was denied.
No need of moon or stars by night,
Or sun to shine by day;
It was the new Jerusalem
That would not pass away.
It was the new Jerusalem
That would not pass away.

Jerusalem! Jerusalem!
Sing for the night is o'er!
Hosanna in the highest!
Hosanna for evermore!
Hosanna in the highest!
Hosanna for evermore!


It started out quietly and then crescendoed when the chorus repeated, "Jerusalem, Jerusalem!" Every hair on my body stood on end and tears flooded my eyes.  I was surprised by my emotional response, but as I looked around the bus, everyone's eyes were glistening and a sense of awe swept through our group. Even though the song playing on the intercom was new to me, I felt compelled to sing along with everyone else on the bus.  


The guide had cued the music perfectly, for just when the chorus first rang out loudly, we drove up to the overlook which afforded us our first and most beautiful view of the city of Jerusalem - NOT.  


We hurriedly climbed off the bus and ran to the famous "spot" where all good tourists have their picture taken with the Holy City in the background.  To our disappointment, we strained our eyes and scanned the horizon for those telltale architectural features that distinguish this special city.  After that emotional build up, we were devastated to realize that the sandstorm from Egypt completely obscured the view.  You could barely make out any buildings at all.  Dejectedly, we reloaded the bus and headed for our hotel.  Hopefully we would be able to see this beloved ciy tomorrow.


We were privileged to spend our time in Jerusalem at the Leonardo Plaza Hotel, a nice upgrade and the poshest hotel we had stayed in so far.  It had a very convenient location near the Old City of Jerusalem.  Our room was on the eleventh floor and gave us a lovely view of the city below.  I highly recommend it.

Leonardo Plaza Hotel - Jerusalem

O Little Town.... How Still We See You Lie...

Incense Burner in Church of the Nativity

On our way up to Jerusalem we stopped by Bethlehem for lunch and a quick tour of our Savior's birth place.  Not only known for being the city where Jesus was born, Bethlehem was first mentioned in the Bible as the place where Jacob's wife Rachel died while giving birth to Benjamin.  It is Rachel's place of burial, and also David's place of birth. As a shepherd boy, he tended his sheep in these same hills, and later it was here that David was anointed King of Israel by Samuel. This city also contains the fields where Ruth gleaned barley from Boaz; later marrying him somewhere in this vicinity.

In order for us to visit Bethlehem, we were told we had to disembark our bus and leave our bus driver and our beloved tour guide behind.  Bethlehem is under Palestinian control (since 1995) and Israeli citizens are not allowed entrance into the city.  There is so much conflict between the Palestinians and the Israelis that Israel's government has warned its citizens not to trespass on their territory.  Trespassing would be dangerous for an Israeli because the Palestinians have been known to kidnap and hold Israeli citizens hostage in order to try and convince the Israeli government to release Palestinians held in Israeli prisons because of terrorist activities or crimes.  Of course, Israel has a "no negotiations" policy - so if Israeli citizens enter Palestinian territories, they do so at their own risk and against the better judgement of their government.  In fact, staying away from Palestinian territory is not just a suggestion, but an actual law.

A Wall of Separation Filled with Political Graffiti in Bethlehem

So visiting Bethlehem meant that we had to make a major "switch".  Our Israeli bus driver drove us to an alley of sorts where they pulled up near another bus which was right around the corner.  We were instructed to get off our bus, to take all our belongings and to keep them close to us at all times.  We were told to walk around the corner where another bus would be waiting, a Palestinian bus, a Palestinian bus driver, and a Palestinian Tour Guide.  Our tour guide was nice - but the difference in buses was quite noticeable.  We transferred from a new, clean, well kept Israeli bus to an old, very dirty, dank, much less comfortable Palestinian bus.  To be honest, the whole transfer thing seemed like some shady drug deal done on the wrong side of town.  Everything from the back alley transfer, to the hushed tones of our guide, the warnings to hold securely to all our possessions, to stay together as a group and to avoid interactions or even eye contact with strangers on the street, to the memories of bus bombings and kidnappings.... It was a little nerve wracking to say the least.

The Palestinians we met made it a point to inform us that our tour guide, the restaurant owners, and the gift shop owners were all "Christians".  I think they use that term a little bit like we do in the U.S.  Our new friends were Christians, but Christians as opposed to being Jewish or Muslim, not necessarily Christians as in having a personal relationship with Christ.  You know that feeling- that people are name dropping to manipulate you into trusting them, buying something, or to try and convince you of something about which your are doubtful? We had that feeling. I really didn't sense that we had much, if anything in common.  Their Christianity was heavily steeped in mysticism and tradition.  Try as they might to convince us that we shared a common religious experience, I felt very, very different from them.



I had really been looking forward to our stop in Bethlehem, perhaps even more than our next stop in Jerusalem.  I had visions of the Shepherds' Fields and couldn't wait to see where those humble men had first heard from the angels of the Savior's birth.  My in-laws had been to Shepherds' Field before and had shown us pictures and told us of their experiences there.  I knew what I was in for and I could hardly wait.

Bethlehem in a Sandstorm

Well, the first disappointing thing that day had to do with the weather.  At the same time we were driving north from the Dead Sea, a wind from the West had brought an enormous sandstorm over from Egypt.  Even though the noon sun was shining, you could hardly make out anything in the distance. It was eerie and other worldly.

A View of Shepherd's Field in a Sandstorm

The second disappointment was realizing our view of Shepherd's Field was obscured by the newly built condominiums.  The new construction now encroaches within a mile of Shepherd's Field.  It is no longer the picturesque, natural looking fields of my dreams and depicted in Bible storybooks, but looks more like a modern city scape. I'm sure the shepherds and their sheep agree with me and think that building these condominiums so near their fields is a "baaaahd" idea.

Franciscan Shepherds' Field Chapel

Our first stop was the Shepherds' Field Chapel, built by the Franciscans in 1954.  This chapel was built to resemble the tent of a shepherd and has beautiful murals painted on the walls inside.

Shepherds in the Fields

Angels Announcing the Birth of Jesus to the Shepherds

The Ceiling of the Shepherds' Field Chapel - Allowing Natural Light to Flood the Room

The Shepherds Visit the Christ Child

The Painting Behind the Chapel's Altar of the Angels Enjoying the Birth of Christ

This Chapel belongs to the Catholic Church (Franciscans) and is part of their Shepherds Fields. (The Greek Orthodox lay claim to their own Shepherds' Fields in another location.)

Looking Up to Ground Level From Excavations of Early Byzantine Church and Monastery

Nearby, we were able to explore the ruins of a Byzantine church and monastery which is in the process of being excavated.



We then walked around the corner to a low, natural cave which is now partially enclosed to form a chapel.  These caves were used by shepherds for shelter and protection in the night. The soot blackened ceilings remind visitors that shepherds once kept warm by fires in this very cave.  The Franciscans have constructed a little nativity scene in the cave to picture the possibility and an altar used for worship services.  

Natural Cave in Shepherds' Field Converted to a Chapel

Altar in Natural Cave - Shepherds' Field

Manger Scene Depicted in Natural Cave

Later we traveled to the oldest standing church in Israel, the Church of the Nativity.  This church was originally built in the 4th Century by Helena, the mother of Constantine.  It was reconstructed in the 6th Century by Emperor Justinian and then further repaired by the Crusaders.  The church's exterior is unimpressive except for its fortress like quality.

Outside the Entrance to the Church of the Nativity

Different Icons, Symbols, and Decorations Inside the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem

Some interesting facts:  When the Persians invaded in 614 they left the church intact, rumor has it, because they saw the mural of the Three Wise Men and were moved to protect the church when they noticed the Magi's Persian attire.  King Edward IV of England donated wood from English Oak trees for the beams you see in the ceiling.  He also donated lead for the roof, but that was stolen by the Turks to melt down and make ammunition in their war with the Venetians.

The Original Grand, Arched Doorway was Bricked Up
Leaving a Small, Low "Humble" Doorway Through Which To Enter the Church

The entrance to the church is a low doorway which has its own legends.  We were told it originally was constructed in a normal size and under an arch. (See Above)  It was supposedly reduced in size by the Crusaders who wanted to discourage barbarians from riding on horseback into the church to pillage.  Some say the door was constructed in this diminutive size to cause all who enter to strike a humble pose.  

Inside the Church of the Nativity - Corinthian Columns and English Oak Ceiling from King Edward IV

The church is divided into five naves by four rows of Corinthian columns with pictures of the apostles on them.  The floor of the church has a window that allows you to see the Byzantine mosaics that covered the original floor.  

Corinthian Column and Wooden Ceiling from King Edward IV

Original Byzantine Mosaic Floor of the Church of the Nativity

The altar of the church is under a huge gold and silver chandelier and on either side of the altar are stairs leading down to the grotto (natural cave) where a 14 point silver star embedded in white marble marks the spot where they believe Jesus was born. Early Christian tradition places the birth of Jesus in a cave, and the Church of the Nativity was constructed over this particular cave because early church goers marked this memorial as the place of Jesus birth.

Descending Stairs to Enter the Grotto (Cave) of the Church of the Nativity

14 Point Silver Star Embedded in White Marble Marks the Spot of Jesus' Birth in the Grotto

Just a few feet away from the birth place, is the Chapel of the Manger where they believe that Mary laid Jesus.

Chapel of the Manger in the Grotto of the Nativity

Smoke Blackened Ceiling Supports many Lanterns in the Grotto of the Nativity

 Like the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, the Church of the Nativity is also divided up and controlled by several denominations.  You can see their individual style and architecture as you move from area to area within the church.

Architecture and Style of Orthodox Church

After our visit to the Church of the Holy Nativity, we were escorted to a Gift Shop to browse, use the facilities, and to wait for our "bus switch".  I must admit, many of us were feeling antsy. We were wanting to get on to Jerusalem. Our visit to Bethlehem felt strained: the sandstorm, the perceived danger of being in Palestinian Territory, the overly gaudy Church of the Nativity, and the long pause in the gift shop. The prices at this gift shop seemed unreasonably steep and the pressure to purchase something was mounting.  The employees closely followed you around the store and when you paused for even a moment, they were right there to ask if you would like to purchase the item you were looking at.  

I couldn't wait to leave, but Mark was having the time of his life.  Little did I know, but the owner of the store offered to give him whatever he wanted as a gift.  He had his heart set on a little oil lamp from the time of Christ.  The owner graciously gave him that oil lamp, the treasure of our trip, in appreciation for our group stopping in his store.  Yikes - I hope our group spent enough money to warrant such a gracious gift.  I left feeling even more guilty and slightly awkward.   

The second "secretive switch" back onto our beloved Israeli bus was a cinch!  We all felt "at home" and relieved to be moving on.  Next stop... Jerusalem!

Addendum:  After writing from my "experience" in touring the city of Bethlehem, I did some research that warrants being mentioned.  In defense of our Christian friends who took us around, served us a meal, and cared for us during our short stay, it is very important to note how difficult their life has become.

Over the years, they have witnessed how relations between the Muslims and the Christians have deteriorated. Their beloved city of Bethlehem, has been under rule of the Palestinian Authority since 1995, and they have painfully watched its decline.  Up until 1972, Christians comprised the majority of Bethlehem's population. There were, at that time, only 5 mosques.  Today there are over 90 Mosques in Bethlehem and Christians make up less than 16% of the population.  Christians have become the minority group in a Muslim city.

As you can imagine, Christians have experienced tremendous persecution; spiritually, economically, and socially. In the 1990's the Mosques began  broadcasting anti-Christian sermons over their loudspeakers and teaching that the Christians did not believe in God, were criminals who collaborated with Jews, and that their young girls dressed and behaved immorally.  These public accusations sent shockwaves through the Christian community.  Islamic fundamentalists were moving into Bethlehem and ramping up the persecution.

In the years between 2001 and 2004 more than 3000 Christians emigrated from Bethlehem.  As the persecution increased the Christian population decreased, and with their decline in population, their political clout also fell. Palestinian law dictates that Bethlehem's mayor must be a Christian, but in 2008 only three Christians sat on the council that ran the city.  The council had a strong coalition led by Islamic fundamentalists - five of whom belonged to Hamas, one to Islamic Jihad, and six were Fatah representatives.

Today, Christians daily face intimidation and humiliation at the hands of their Muslim neighbors.  According to what I read, since the Palestinian Authority took over control of the city they have demanded blackmail money from Christian businessmen and have even taken land from Christian families without compensating them. Young Christian girls have reportedly been kidnapped off the streets, taken advantage of, and forced to marry Muslims in order to convert them.  There is no longer a sense of justice on the streets because the thugs who lie in wait to rip crosses off the necks of Christians and then beat them senseless are often related in some way to the police force there.

The industry of tourism has taken a sharp downturn because of the dangers present and so those who have made their living by sharing their city with tourists have suffered huge financial losses and find it difficult now to make ends meet.  Many, many Christians who have lived in Bethlehem for generations spanning thousands of years, have fled their home town because of the tremendous and difficult persecutions they have experienced.

Perhaps that is why the prices at the gift shop were a little high, and why the bus was a bit worn and neglected.  Remember the condominiums built so near the Shepherds' Fields, or the many Mosques that are erected directly across from any historically Christian site? Understanding the political climate a bit better and the realizing the persecution these Christians endure, my less than stellar experience in Bethlehem now makes more sense.  I feel much compassion for these Christian friends who continue to hold on in the face of persecution against the greatest of odds.  They have my utmost respect and my earnest prayers.

Masada - The Last Stand

After packing to leave our lovely Dead Sea Hotel, our skin now silky smooth and our ailments healed from our Dead Sea "spa float", we loaded the bus and headed a short distance up the highway to a famous historical site known as Masada.  

View of the Multi-Colored,Wind-Chiseled Sand Below Masada

It was already so very hot that morning in the desert, we elected to save time and preserve our weary bodies by riding the cable car to the top of the 1,300 foot cliffs on the Western side. Our other option was to take the “snake trail” to the top, a very long and steep climb (950 feet in elevation) to the fortress above.   If we had taken the time to climb by foot, we would have traversed one of the three ancient routes to Masada and we would have personally experienced how wonderfully secure that fortress was.  Each of the three trails to the top was met by a fortified gate making Masada virtually impenetrable by its enemies. 

Riding in the Cable Car up to Masada

Once at the top of the mountain we discovered a magnificent twenty-three acre plateau where we gathered under a small shade tent for protection from the sun's scorching rays while Hanna used a model to explain the story of Masada.  

Our Family and Friends in the  Desert Atop Masada

Hanna Telling Us the Story of Masada Using a Model.  You can see part of the "Snake Path" winding up the side of the cliffs in the model.  As it "snakes" around the mountain, it climbs over 950 feet in elevation during its five mile path.  It can take an experienced hiker three to four hours to ascend.  Glad we were able to ride the cable car!

Masada actually means fortress and this particular desert fortress according to Josephus Flavius, was built by Herod the Great between 37 and 31 BC.  Herod, an Idumean, had been made King of Judea by his Roman overlords but was despised by his Jewish subjects.  Herod, as the master-builder, fearing a revolt, “furnished this fortress as a refuge for himself.”

Evan Enjoying His View From the Top of the Fortress

It was interesting to learn of all the innovations Herod had designed to ensure his survival and multiply his pleasure.  He had a thick casement wall around the entire plateau, eighteen storehouses, barracks, an armory filled with weapons, enormous rock-hewn cisterns for an abundant supply of fresh water, bath houses, a synagogue for worship, a residential palace for entertainment and relaxation, and a ceremonial palace, the largest structure, which covered one entire acre of the 23 acre mountain top plateau and was used as his administrative center.  

An Example of an Actual Fresco Found in Masada - The Black Line Indicates Herodian Period Stones Below the Line and First Century Stones Above.  

Herod constructed eighteen long storehouses. Archaeologists have found labeled jars and containers of differing shapes and sizes indicating that each storehouse held a different commodity; oil, grains, wine, etc.  They have even discovered in one of the storehouses, a supply of ancient wine bottles sent to Herod from Italy.  One of the labels found was addressed to Herod and says, “King of the Jews”.  

Mark Checks Out the Storehouses

They devised intricate water channels that led to cisterns; keeping the inhabitants of Masada supplied with plenty of fresh water during the year.  They had engineered a way to catch the rainwater running from the streams down the mountain and divert them to this system of enormous rock-hewn cisterns which held their water supply.

The Bathhouses, of which there were several, were ingenious. They consisted of a large courtyard surrounded by porticos and several rooms all of which were tiled with mosaics and most of which had lovely frescos on the walls; the largest room was the hot room or caldarium. The suspended floor of the caldarium was supported by a number of short columns allowing hot air from the furnace room to be blown under the floor and then through the terra cotta pipes embedded in the walls.  This process not only allowed the bathhouse to produce steam from the water on the hot floors, but it also afforded the bathers a temperate atmosphere. The temperature of the room could be adjusted according to preference.  They really took their bathing experience seriously!

Some of the 200 Columns that Supported the Floor in the Caldarium

Terra Cotta Pipes Encased in Caldarium Walls to Heat the Bathhouse

Herod had a synagogue incorporated into the northwestern portion of the casement wall and oriented toward Jerusalem.  This synagogue is considered to be one of the oldest and the best examples of the early synagogues pre-dating the destruction of the Temple in 70 A.D.  Archaeologists have found fragments of two scrolls containing portions of Deuteronomy and Ezekiel hidden in pits dug under the floor of a small room located within the Synagogue.  

Just outside the Synagogue, there is a little, private study which houses a rabbi who is hand writing a copy of the Torah.  What a sacred and honorable privilege!   

Rabbi Copying the Law

On the Northern edge of the steep cliff, affording a magnificent view, was Herod’s luxurious residential palace.  It was separated from the fortress by a wall which provided both ultimate security and total privacy.  This palace consisted of three terraces, the upper one serving as the king’s residence and the bottom two were  designed with pleasure, entertainment, and relaxation in mind.  A narrow staircase carved into the rock face of the mountain connected the three terraces.  Because it was difficult to find and haul actual marble slabs up the face of this steep mountain fortress, Herod, wanting his palace to look luxurious and caring about ever detail, insisted on having the walls of his palace covered in frescos painted to resembled fine marble.  This was the ultimate bachelor pad and sported private bathhouses, gorgeous Corinthian columns, artfully designed mosaic floors, frescoed walls, lovely porticos, and a fantastic view of his kingdom.  

Model of Herod's Three Terraces Built into the Side of the Mountain in His Residential Palace on Masada

About 75 years after Herod's death, during the period of the revolt of the Jews against Rome, a group of Jewish rebels in 66 AD overcame the Roman garrison of Masada.  After the fall of Jerusalem and the destruction of the Temple in 70 A.D., they were joined by other Jewish zealots and their families who fled Jerusalem.  

With Masada as their base, for two years they raided and harassed the Romans.  Finally in 73 A.D. the Roman Governor, Flavius Silva, along with the Tenth Roman Legion, several auxillary units, and thousands of Jewish prisoners-of-war, marched against the zealots in Masada.  The Romans laid siege to Masada, established eight camps at the base and built a circumvallation wall six feet thick and seven miles long connecting the camps.  In fact, the wall and eleven of the Roman barracks can still be seen in the desert sand below Masada.  (See below)

Two of the Roman Camps (Barracks) and Part of the Surrounding Wall is Still Seen in the Desert Below

Anyone who has climbed the famous “snake path”  to Masada will understand why the Romans had to content themselves with a siege.  They knew that an army ascending those treacherous mountain paths would have made an easy target for the defenders above.  For three years these Jewish Zealots held off the Romans.  Yet the Jews could never really feel secure.  Daily they looked down from their fortress at the Roman Tenth Legion below, watching in fear as they built battering rams and other weapons, preparing to attack.

Evan Capturing the View Through One of the Look Outs in the Casement Wall

After some time and much hard work, the Romans constructed a rampart of thousands of tons of stone and earth leading up to the western approaches of the fortress.  In the Spring of 74 A.D. they moved a battering ram up the ramp and finally breached the walls of the fortress.

Atop Masada,  Pointing Out the Roman Rampart Below

View of the Rampart Built by the Romans to Take the Fort

Upon entering the fortress the Romans found that the entire population of Jewish Zealot defenders had taken their own lives rather than be taken alive by their enemy.  Because suicide is forbidden among the Jews, they drew lots and were assigned to kill each other, leaving only one person in the end who had to kill himself.  

Josephus records that they also set fire to their fortress; purposely avoiding setting fire to their storehouses because they wanted their enemy to see how well prepared they were to survive. They didn’t want the Romans to mistakenly think they had ended their lives because they had run out of supplies.  

They were the originators of the idea, “Live free, or die.”  In the end it took more than nine thousand Roman soldiers, support personnel and slaves to bring down less than one thousand Jewish Zealots.  It’s one of those stories historians love and about which movies are made.  

Even though 960 Jews ended their own lives here in the first century, Masada has become very symbolic for the Jewish people as a place of survival - sort of oxymoronic, isn't it?  Masada represents the Jewish spirit and determination to be free and on their own land.  All Israeli soldiers come here, to Masada, after finishing their IDF basic training to walk up the "snake path" during the night and to take their oath by torchlight, "Masada shall not fall again."

IDF Soldier on Masada